By Cults on June 21, 2019 22:53
1:4,5 scale model of the Heinkel He-162. Length: 1996 mm (without pitot tube) Wingspan: 1580 mm Flying weight: 7,5 kg Power: ~4000 W Minimum printer size for the biggest parts: 280x280x300 mm Many parts will print on smaller 200x200x180 CG: 83 mm - Should be slightly forward with gear down and slightly aft with gear up Elevator throw: 20 mm up and down Aileron throw: 20 mm up and down Rudder throw: 12 mm left and right Prototype videos: https://youtu.be/EDEhikNloU8 https://youtu.be/c0MWYCIPg6g (Note that the prototype did not have reinforced landing gear like the files here. I'm reprinting with the reinforcements) Final version video with reinforced undercarriage: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHlbqoq0Mpk Very good stall characteristics and gentle handling in flight. The prototype had a top speed of 228 km/h with the 3D printed EDF. There is no bad handling because of the high thrust line because it is compensated for in the design. The EDF intake is larger than scale for more airflow to the 120 mm EDF. The turbine intake is closer to scale size. I have no intention of trying turbines myself but There is room in the fuselage for all kinds of tanks. I can design a turbine nacelle if there is a need for one with a larger internal cavity than the duct. I added a separate Exhaust piece for small turbines for those that want to try that. Exhaust02-turbine has 6,6mm slots in the sides for glueing in 6 mm or 1/4" plywood mounting rails for turbines like Kingtech K45 at the proper angle (2?? down thrust). The top of the plywood rails will be the center of the duct. The canopy has 4mm holes on each side in the front for adding 4mm latching mechanism. You'll need ~4x30mm rods with a 2mm hole drilled perpendicular for ~2x10mm rods (handles to fit into. You also need 3mm-4mm diameter springs if you want the latch to lock in place with spring tension. The same Warning, skills like basic metalwork and brazing (silver soldering) is required to finish this model, as well as general model setup know-how. Don't buy this if you don't know how to do DIY stuff like that, or are not willing to figure it out. If precise center drilling isn't possible then a pre made shaft coupler can be used between the threaded rod and actuator shaft instead, for example a 3x5mm (or 3x4 threaded to M5) here: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&toolid=11800&pub=5575353675&campid=5338226872&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F5-10pcs-Brass-Shaft-Coupling-Coupler-Motor-Transmission-Connector-2-3-4-5-6MM%2F223717654597 I mistakenly linked to the wrong retract sequencer before. It should be V1, not V2. Safety warnings: -The EDF s a very highly loaded assembly at high speed so it's important that you know what you are doing. -Make sure the integrity of the printed impeller is good before trying to run it. -Always wear protective glasses when test runnin the fan. Always protect your eyes. -Do NOT run the fan at high power while holding in your hand. -Keep your hands and any loose items away from the fan when running. It WILL shred your fingers if they get sucked in, and the suction force is very strong. If something gets sucked in it can damage the impeller and potentially shatter, throwing loose debris out. Landing gear parts: Uses retract actuators from JP to retract the landing gear which is integrated: http://www.hobby-china.com/control-box-v1-for-gear-operation-jp-hobby.html http://www.hobby-china.com/motor-parts-for-jp-aer-7-3-jp-hobby-alloy-electric-retracts-for-7-8-kg.html 2x 130 mm shocks: https://www.banggood.com/4PC-180007-130MM-Aluminum-Alloy-Front-Rear-Shock-Absorber-For-HSP-Rc-Car-Climbing-Rock-Crawler-p-1305169.html?ID=232&cur_warehouse=CN 2x 1,4x10x50 mm springs for the main gear: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4mm-WD-9mm-OD-Stainless-Steel-Compression-Spring-Compressed-Pressure-Springs/272632001985 0,8x9x60 mm tension spring for the nose gear (I made mine from spring stock) M5 threaded rod stock and M5 nuts to make actuator lead screws from Williams Bros 5-1/4 tires can be used instead of the printed tires. Ask WB to sell tires only to avoid having to remove the hub: http://www.wmbros.com/store/p53/Smooth_Balloon-II%2C_5-1%2F4%22_Diameter%2C_1_Pair.html Dubro smooth 3-1/4" nose wheel: https://www.ebay.com/itm/372109961103 4x 47ODx3,5 mm O-rings for the brakes: https://www.ebay.com/itm/253621698783 Requires the following carbon fiber tubes and rods: 1x 16x14x770 mm tube for the wings 2x 16x14x84 mm tubes for the lower main gear struts 2x 18x16x157 mm tubes for the upper main gear struts 1x 8x6x300 mm tube for the wings 1x 8x6x167 mm tube for the nose gear strut 1x 6x4x900 mm tube for elevator control Various lengths of 6 mm tube or rod for strengthening the landing gear mount area Various lengths of 3mm and 4 mm carbon fiber rod for hinging and reinforcement. The control surfaces use 3mm carbon rods.You'll need ~5 1m rods. Screws: Various M3 screws and nuts from 8 mm length to 40 mm length Various M2 screws from 10 to 20 mm length M3x5 and 12 mm grub screws M6x80 mm screws for the main gear strut mounts M6x50 mm hex head bolts for the main wheels Ball bearings: 12x 6x15x5 mm for the main gear and elevators 4x 4x11x4 mm for the nose gear Servos: 3x JX DHV56MG for the nose steering and wheel brakes: https://www.banggood.com/4PCS-JX-Servo-DHV56MG-5_6g-DS-Digital-Coreless-MG-Metal-Gear-HV-Servo-1_2kg-0_10sec-For-RC-Airplane-p-1430838.html?cur_warehouse=CN7x Corona CS-238MG (or similar size servo with 4+ kgf/cm torque) for all control surfaces. Flaps and elevator can use standard servos instead: https://www.banggood.com/Corona-CS238MG-Thin-Metal-Wing-Analog-Servo-p-1049129.html 1x "9g" servo for the nose gear door Power for the printable EDF unit: 2x 6S 5000 mAh lipos (Gens Ace 45C recommended) Castle Creations Talon HV 120 ESC Het 800-73-590kv motor with heatsink:https://www.turbines-rc.com/en/50-56mm-brushless-motors/285-typhoon-het-edf-800-73-motor-50mm-590kv.html https://www.turbines-rc.com/en/heat-sink/1075-heat-sink-75mm-for-50mm-motor-and-ejets-jetfan-120-edf.html The stand uses a 16x585 mm tube as the center member. I used locally sourced aluminum tubing. The stand is supposed to support the plane immediately aft of the gear wells and at the joint between Fuselage02 and Fuselage03. If the 3D printable fan is used, the recommended HET motor should also be used with the heatsink. The motor shaft should have a hole drilled half way through it for one of the M3-16 mm impeller grub screws, because heat soak from the motor can cause the impeller to come loose if just a flat spot is used. The prototype fan pulled 100 A at full throttle on a fresh 12S charge when installed in the HE-162.
3D file format: STL and ZIP